Day 24 — Monday 23 May 2011

Lumbier – Isaba

I went back into Lumbier and had breakfast in a very good panaderia. I found a supermarcado and bought provisions for the day and set off into the foothills of the Pyrenees. I got over the Alto de Iso without getting off, which was encouraging. The road was good with a really smooth surface but went on and on twisting round endless spurs and ridges. Just past the Alto de Iso there is a new stretch of road that cuts off a series of hairpins round the top of the Hoz de Arbayun and I was tempted to leave the new road, but didn’t in favour of easy riding.

I threaded my way through the narrow streets of Navascues, a return to the mountainous villages I had got used to further South and refreshing after the urban towns and villages of the great river valleys. Up and over another long pass and then an eight kilometre sweep down to Burgui. The road bypasses the alpine-like village but I turned off into the sunny centre and found a bar for lunch.

I was now in the Val del Roncal that heads straight into the Pyrenees towards the Spanish/French border. This was delightful riding up a narrow sunny valley with a stream splashing alongside. Through Roncal and onto Isaba where everything was shut in the middle of the afternoon. I really should have carried on but I had no way of knowing where the campsite was without asking, and there was no-one about. I decided to take the easy option again and stayed in a super hostal. I walked to the edge of the village in the evening and found a bar for supper.